Trekking Day 7: Dingboche to Lobuche via Thukla

26 March 2015

4,928 meters. Hours of silence and introspection. Awe-inspiring landscapes.

6:30. I didn’t have a thermometer with me but I’m pretty sure it was below zero when we woke up. I remembered from Gina’s blog that this was the day she had altitude sickness. I didn’t have any signs of AMS but just to be sure, I had macaroni soup with garlic for breakfast (garlic is believed to help you acclimatize)

 

Rest Period

08:30. After our usual long morning routine (breakfast and packing) we finally headed up the hills where we hiked yesterday. The trail to Thukla was gradual with an amazing scenery. For a few hours, we walked along a meadow with Mount Taboche and Mount Cholatse in the background. Unlike the previous days, we didn’t pass by any village. I was hoping we’d pass by one because I needed to take a piss.  Since there weren’t any and I couldn’t take it anymore, I hid behind a rock in the middle of the vast hill (which I’m sure didn’t cover me from trekkers uphill) and did what I had to do. It was awkward but hey, I had one hell of a spectacular view.

 

Where to pee?

Although the trail was gradual, I was still slow. Victor was usually about half a kilometer ahead of me and Madan was usually either between me and Victor or about a quarter kilometer behind me. So, it pretty much felt like hiking alone. Just me… listening to my heavy breathing. About twenty times that day, I kept on thinking: I should’ve brought my iPod. 

On the first few days of trekking, I felt compelled to walk fast. I would usually see Victor sitting on a rock somewhere up the trail, waiting for me, while I struggled to keep my breathing bearable. And just when I’m a few meters near him, ready to take a rest, he’d stand up and resume trekking. And inside my head, I’d be cursing, What the f***! Wait! I need to catch my breath! I wondered if he was trying to avoid me considering how loquacious I could be (although between breathing, it was quite hard to sustain a conversation) or if it were a ploy to hasten me.  Or... he was simply that kind of hiker (my dad doesn't wait up for me either). But I reminded myself that I had emphasized on the onset (to Victor, Naba and Madan) that I am really slow and I wanted do this trek in my pace.  Victor didn't have to wait up for me and I didn't have to pick up my pace (although it would be really nice if I could). 

I suddenly missed Leo and Luther, my personal sweepers. At that moment on, I really appreciated their patience. It was very difficult to be slow… it was hard to take time to take photos when I also had stop to blow my nose, to un-fog my glasses, and I’m too slow to catch up. I had worked on my cardio for 1 year but I’m simply a turtle. Dingboche to Lobuche had one of the most stunning scenery but the vastness of the Himalayas also exaggerated the loneliness I felt.  Again, why the f*** did I leave my iPod in Kathmandu?

 

En route to Thukla

12:00. After more than 3 hours of walking, we finally arrived at Thukla. I had rice with egg curry for lunch (although it wasn’t really curry—it was basically diced tomatoes with egg).  It was cold but the sun was scorching hot. Nevertheless, we chose to consume our lunch outside the tea house. Although my lunch was, well, tomato with rice, we were having lunch in the middle of a gigantic mountain range.

 

Thukla cemetery

12:50. In less than an hour, we resumed our trek to Lobuche.  We went through a steep and rocky trail for about an hour until we reached the cemetery.  We spent about 30 minutes in the cemetery, taking photos and reading some of the epitaphs and names on the tombstones. After we traversed the cemetery, we unexpectedly found ourselves in a long stretch of snow. It was quite startling since it was already spring and I really didn’t expect to walk in snow.   I have already said it numerous times but I have to say this again: the landscape was amazing! Unfortunately, my Merrel shoes, which were supposed to be waterproof, seemed to have lost its waterproof-ness. My shoes were supposed to be waterproof but I think it’s damaged. My shoes were heavy from the mud and snow.

 

A snowy trail

16:00. By the time we reached Lobuche, my feet were cold and soggy, and my shoes were heavy from the mud and snow.  It was quite cold—since we left Thukla, I was already wearing both my fleece and windproof jacket on top of my thermals and long-sleeved shirt. I also found it harder to catch my breath. It could be the altitude. But I reckon, it was due to the cold.

 

Snow. Cold. And Snow.

18:30. It seemed fitting to have garlic soup (with toast) for dinner. Based on the forecast, the temperature was between -9°C and 2°C. It very much felt like -9°C. I had a stomachache that night but I was also very excited because tomorrow, we were going to Everest Base Camp.