Trekking Day 10: Pheriche to Thyangboche

29 March 2015

En route to Pangboche from Pheriche

07:00. My mobile’s thermometer was at 0 degrees when we woke up (although I’m not entirely sure how accurate this was). After three quarters, I had vegetable omelette for breakfast while Victor had Tibetan bread with peanut butter.

08:40. When we left Pheriche, I was wearing my thermals, a long-sleeved shirt and pink jacket. And then along the way to Pangboche, I started shredding off some clothes as the temperature got warmer. Since Pheriche was located in a valley, the first part of the trail was going up. I was quite surprised that I managed to hike up the hill continuously, without stopping to rest. Perhaps, my lungs had strengthened and were enjoying the increased oxygen. Although I was still panting, it took a shorter time for me to catch my breath. But the trek was quite pleasant… It was warm and the trail was mostly flat. We passed through the same villages and since we were walking on a more comfortable pace, I took my time taking photos along the way.

11:00. I was slightly sweating when we arrived at Pangboche, and reduced my clothing to my sweat-wicking long-sleeved shirt. I had dal bhat with vegetable curry for lunch at the same tea house where we slept on day 4.

12:30 We resumed our trek and I was quite fascinated to find myself remembering the trail. The trek didn’t take long. After an hour and a half, we were back at Thyangboche, where it was warm and sunny.

Sherpa: Simply extraordinary; en route to Thyangboche

14:30. Victor and I treated ourselves and Madan with chocolate cakes and Cokes. The Coke was US$4 a can but it was so worth it. The cake wasn’t extraordinary but it felt good to eat one. After snacks, we rested a bit and spent the afternoon hanging out at the monastery area, watching the clouds move atop Mount Ama Dablam, Mount Everest and Lhotse.

Café Tengboche, bakery where you can buy chocolate cake

18:30. Victor and I shared dinner (fried noodles and potato with vegetable and egg). Today was an easy day. We spent less than 4 hours trekking. We had plenty of time to relax and enjoy Thyangboche.

 

My stinky socks hanging in our room (poor Victor)

Trekking Day 9: Gorakshep-Kala Patthar-Pheriche

28 March 2015

12 hours of trekking.

5,550 meters.

Despite being slow, I finally made it to the highest point of our trek, at Kala Patthar.

View of Mount Everest and Mount Nuptse from Kala Patthar

<5:00. I could hear the wind howling from our room and I feared that the weather wouldn’t permit us to hike to Kala Patthar, the highest point of our Himalayan trek. Nevertheless, I put on all the jackets I had and with our head lamps, Victor and I headed towards the dining hall where we found a crowd of trekkers who were also about to ascend. Madan wasn’t feeling well that day so it was Ram, our porter, who met us at the hall and brought us tea. We were informed that the weather was good (I guess, that howling wind was just normal) and half past 5 in the morning, we headed out for Kala Patthar.

It was windy, cold and dark. But it wasn’t snowing, so… yay! All the trekkers were wearing headlamps so you could see a long trail of lights along the mountain. Victor and I were among the last ones to leave (I knew I was going to end up on the tail anyway). Victor was a few meters ahead while Ram and I weren’t so far behind (than usual). Along the way, I passed by a female trekker who turned around to go back to the tea house. She said it was simply too cold and too far. After a while, there was another guy who turned around. Victor said that the guy kept on falling down along the trail (altitude sickness, perhaps?). It was damn cold and it was difficult to breathe cold air and I had a slight pain on my chest from yesterday’s strenuous hike, but I was generally alright. I think I was in better shape today than yesterday. I was glad I was wearing my dad’s Goretex pants, although I didn’t look good in it—comfort before fashion. However, we were walking on fresh snow and my not-so-waterproof shoes weren’t protecting my toes. They felt cold and numb and for a quick moment, I feared that I might end up with a frostbite. I should’ve worn my thermal leggings that covered my toes… but then again, the thermal leggings still wouldn’t have been able to keep my wet toes warm. So, from time to time, I’d simply wiggle my numb toes and that kept them warm.

The sun reflecting off the summit of Mount Pumori

The Himalayas, at dawn, was dramatically breathtaking. The sky was dark blue and the snowy mountains seem to glow in the dark. I wanted to take a photo but I was already way behind Victor and well, everyone. And more than that, it was too cold to take off my gloves and take a photo. As we neared the peak, I felt the trail getting steeper. It felt like walking 45-60 degrees (Victor thinks it was about 30 degree and he was probably right). The cold made it grueling but the ascent was fairly easy. Don’t get me wrong, I was still panting (but I’m already used to this, after two years of hiking) but I was more focused than yesterday.   After a while the sun started to rise behind Everest and we paused to marvel at the highest peak in the world. When the sun was finally up and shining, the cold wasn’t as bothersome as it was when we started.

 

The trail, with Mount Pumori in the background

08:30. By the time we reached the peak, it was sunny. The weather was perfect. And we had a clear unobstructed view of Mount Everest sitting behind Mount Nuptse. We enjoyed the remarkable Himalayan view while sipping the warm tea that Ram brought.  

View from Kalapathar

10:00. It only took us an hour to get back to Gorakshep (gravity helped), where we found Madan waiting for us. The descent was pleasant and we saw two small avalanches along the way, far across us. The snow was fresh and since I was in a good mood, I didn’t mind falling on my butt as I hiked down nonchalantly. 

 

Avalanche!

11:40. After breakfast (I had mashed potatoes with vegetables and cheese), we started the long trek to Pheriche (near Dingboche). Now, this wasn’t just some pleasant descent—the trail went up and down and up and down. But since, we were generally going down, I wasn’t miss slo-mo anymore. We had a quick 30-minute lunch (Rara noodle soup) at Thukla, and then we continued are way down.

We took another break at the Thukla cemetery. It wasn’t as cloudy as the last time we were there, so we had a good time taking another set of photos. I also badly needed to empty my bladder, so I chose a big rock near a hill and did what I had to do on the snow. But before I could finish, rocks (big rocks—not stones) started to fall from the hill towards my direction. You know those times, when your bladder is so full that it seems a while before you can empty it? Well, it was one of those times. Now, it seems so hilarious remembering how I was squatting behind a rock in my bright pink jacket and looking out for the falling rocks while anxiously trying to empty my bladder as fast as I could. Fortunately, the rocks stopped rolling a few meters from where I was and I safely returned to the smiling Madan, who also witnessed the rocks falling towards my direction.

19:00. I was in zombie-mode by the time we reached the tea house. It took us 9 hours to reach Pheriche, from Gorakshep. It started getting dark an hour before we reached the village. Victor was happy because he wanted to do a night trek in the Himalayas. I couldn’t find my headlamp in my pack (it was packed deep down in my bag) so Madan lent me his. For the first time during our trek, I felt drained (usually, I’m just out of breath) before reaching our destination. My feet were blistered and my sense of balance was dubitable.

 

Almost dark, en route to Pheriche

20:00. I ordered vegetable pizza for dinner and I also finished Victor’s curry dish (I was famished!). After what seemed like a long dinner, I retreated back into the room while Victor stayed in the hall to use the WiFi. I was planning to clean myself all over with baby wipes but I was too tired and too cold that after only a few wipes, I ended up just wrapping myself with an emergency blanket. And I stayed there for an eternity. Don’t ask… I was in my bubble!

After a while, I finally had the courage (and sufficient heat and energy) to join Victor outside and enjoy the night sky. On our way to the tea house, we had contemplated on taking a photo from the opposite side, overlooking our tea house. But I was exhausted (and probably, so was he) so we ended up taking photos just right out of our window. I was completely worn out that night but today’s feat left me in high spirits. I made it!

Night Sky, from Pheriche

Trekking Day 8: Lobuche-Gorakshep-EBC

27 March 2015

Today, we set foot on Everest Base Camp (5,360 meters). Today, I hated snow.

07:20. Our day started early with breakfast at half past 6 in the morning but we left Lobuche later than planned. The trail was barren, snowy and cold. Halfway to Gorakshep, I was told that if I didn’t walk any faster, we might not make it to EBC. This pissed me off because the main reason I wanted a private trek was so that I could walk at my own pace. Right from the start, I have warned everyone concerned that I am VERY slow.  I had emphasized this again and again. Everyone knows this. But okay, maybe I’m that slow. If I were a turtle when hiking below 1000 meters, I was probably hiking like a very old turtle at 5000 meters (assuming that the oxygen level has affected my performance). Every step I took (going up) was a struggle (although this had always been a struggle, I think it took a longer time for me to catch my breath while hiking up). So anyway, I picked up my pace and wheezed my way to Gorakshep and EBC (while cursing myself for being weak).

A herd of yaks

11:30. After 4 hours of struggling hiking, we finally arrived at Gorakshep (5,160 meters) where we checked-in at the tea house. I thought we would only have a quick lunch but we had time to rest for a bit. Hm… so we weren’t running late, were we? Anyway, I dressed warmly for our EBC trek—thermals, long sleeves, fleece jacket, down jacket and waterproof shell for my upper body, and thermal leggings, fleece leggings and waterproof pants for my lower body. The temperature was so low that the barrel of water inside the restroom was frozen (confession: I wasn't able to flush the toilet... I'm really sorry but I didn't know what to do!).

Finally caught up! En route to Gorakshep

13:00. We left our backpacks at the tea house and Victor carried our stuff in my drawstring backpack—cameras, 1 liter water and some trail food. Although I’ve been to other mountains that were technically more difficult, the trail to EBC was a different kind of challenge. From Gorakshep, the trail started flat but we were walking on snow, ice and mud. Then, after a rocky ascent with glaciers surrounding us, we went through boulders, which were slippery from the snow. What’s worse, I wanted to pee. While on the trail, I was gauging the boulders if they could provide sufficient coverage. But nope, we weren't the only people on the trail and well I wasn't quite comfortable exposing my behind while it was snowing.

The route to Everest Base Camp

15:30. After almost 3 hours, we finally arrived at EBC at around half past 3 in the afternoon. We were the only ones there. It was foggy and snowing and well… the base camp was basically snow and rocks. From afar, I could see yellow tents on the other side where I assume Everest climbers were camped to acclimatize. But I couldn’t see the Khumbu ice fall. The ice and glaciers were amazing but unfortunately, I couldn’t quite capture them as they were, with my lack of photography skills (note to self: I should learn some photography). 

Since it was cold, we didn’t stay long at EBC. I was wearing thick waterproof gloves but every time I wanted to take a photo, I had to take it off. On our way down, we saw rocks falling on one side of the mountain. This made me realize that EBC could be really dangerous.

What do you see? I see a foggy base camp.

I tried walking fast on the way back (I really wanted to pee) but I was still a distance behind Madan and Victor. It was getting dark by the time we returned. About 20 minutes away from the tea house, I looked up and found a beautiful view of the village. Imagine… it was twilight, snow was falling, and the tea houses were lightly lit up with snow covered rooftops. It was so poetic that I almost forgot that my bladder was full. That scene was like something you’d see in a Christmas postcard. Unfortunately, I was too tired and too cold to take a photo (and if I’m not mistaken, I only had my camera phone with me). But it was one of the most indelible moments I had on this trip.

Snow and Ice. Taken from Everest Base Camp.

18:30. For dinner, Victor ordered macaroni with egg while I ordered tomato soup with garlic. I had puffed too much from my inhaler (about 7?) that I couldn’t hold my spoon well (side effect of Salbutamol) that night, so I switched meals with Victor. I was pretty sure I still didn't have altitude sickness since I didn't have any headache; I think it was the cold that got me wheezing more than usual. 

Madan asked me if I was going to Kala Patthar tomorrow. Of course! I answered with confidence and without hesitation. I know, I know. I probably sounded like a dying cat while hiking and I probably looked haggard but it never occurred to me to skip Kala Patthar. I was tenacious. He looked at me warily and continued to prep us for our early morning walk to the highest point of our trek. 

I’m not sure what was the temperature but according to forecast, it was between -14°C and 1°C in Gorakshep and between -15°C and 0 degrees in EBC. I hoped that the weather would be better the next day.

Trekking Day 7: Dingboche to Lobuche via Thukla

26 March 2015

4,928 meters. Hours of silence and introspection. Awe-inspiring landscapes.

6:30. I didn’t have a thermometer with me but I’m pretty sure it was below zero when we woke up. I remembered from Gina’s blog that this was the day she had altitude sickness. I didn’t have any signs of AMS but just to be sure, I had macaroni soup with garlic for breakfast (garlic is believed to help you acclimatize)

 

Rest Period

08:30. After our usual long morning routine (breakfast and packing) we finally headed up the hills where we hiked yesterday. The trail to Thukla was gradual with an amazing scenery. For a few hours, we walked along a meadow with Mount Taboche and Mount Cholatse in the background. Unlike the previous days, we didn’t pass by any village. I was hoping we’d pass by one because I needed to take a piss.  Since there weren’t any and I couldn’t take it anymore, I hid behind a rock in the middle of the vast hill (which I’m sure didn’t cover me from trekkers uphill) and did what I had to do. It was awkward but hey, I had one hell of a spectacular view.

 

Where to pee?

Although the trail was gradual, I was still slow. Victor was usually about half a kilometer ahead of me and Madan was usually either between me and Victor or about a quarter kilometer behind me. So, it pretty much felt like hiking alone. Just me… listening to my heavy breathing. About twenty times that day, I kept on thinking: I should’ve brought my iPod. 

On the first few days of trekking, I felt compelled to walk fast. I would usually see Victor sitting on a rock somewhere up the trail, waiting for me, while I struggled to keep my breathing bearable. And just when I’m a few meters near him, ready to take a rest, he’d stand up and resume trekking. And inside my head, I’d be cursing, What the f***! Wait! I need to catch my breath! I wondered if he was trying to avoid me considering how loquacious I could be (although between breathing, it was quite hard to sustain a conversation) or if it were a ploy to hasten me.  Or... he was simply that kind of hiker (my dad doesn't wait up for me either). But I reminded myself that I had emphasized on the onset (to Victor, Naba and Madan) that I am really slow and I wanted do this trek in my pace.  Victor didn't have to wait up for me and I didn't have to pick up my pace (although it would be really nice if I could). 

I suddenly missed Leo and Luther, my personal sweepers. At that moment on, I really appreciated their patience. It was very difficult to be slow… it was hard to take time to take photos when I also had stop to blow my nose, to un-fog my glasses, and I’m too slow to catch up. I had worked on my cardio for 1 year but I’m simply a turtle. Dingboche to Lobuche had one of the most stunning scenery but the vastness of the Himalayas also exaggerated the loneliness I felt.  Again, why the f*** did I leave my iPod in Kathmandu?

 

En route to Thukla

12:00. After more than 3 hours of walking, we finally arrived at Thukla. I had rice with egg curry for lunch (although it wasn’t really curry—it was basically diced tomatoes with egg).  It was cold but the sun was scorching hot. Nevertheless, we chose to consume our lunch outside the tea house. Although my lunch was, well, tomato with rice, we were having lunch in the middle of a gigantic mountain range.

 

Thukla cemetery

12:50. In less than an hour, we resumed our trek to Lobuche.  We went through a steep and rocky trail for about an hour until we reached the cemetery.  We spent about 30 minutes in the cemetery, taking photos and reading some of the epitaphs and names on the tombstones. After we traversed the cemetery, we unexpectedly found ourselves in a long stretch of snow. It was quite startling since it was already spring and I really didn’t expect to walk in snow.   I have already said it numerous times but I have to say this again: the landscape was amazing! Unfortunately, my Merrel shoes, which were supposed to be waterproof, seemed to have lost its waterproof-ness. My shoes were supposed to be waterproof but I think it’s damaged. My shoes were heavy from the mud and snow.

 

A snowy trail

16:00. By the time we reached Lobuche, my feet were cold and soggy, and my shoes were heavy from the mud and snow.  It was quite cold—since we left Thukla, I was already wearing both my fleece and windproof jacket on top of my thermals and long-sleeved shirt. I also found it harder to catch my breath. It could be the altitude. But I reckon, it was due to the cold.

 

Snow. Cold. And Snow.

18:30. It seemed fitting to have garlic soup (with toast) for dinner. Based on the forecast, the temperature was between -9°C and 2°C. It very much felt like -9°C. I had a stomachache that night but I was also very excited because tomorrow, we were going to Everest Base Camp.