Trekking Day 8: Lobuche-Gorakshep-EBC

27 March 2015

Today, we set foot on Everest Base Camp (5,360 meters). Today, I hated snow.

07:20. Our day started early with breakfast at half past 6 in the morning but we left Lobuche later than planned. The trail was barren, snowy and cold. Halfway to Gorakshep, I was told that if I didn’t walk any faster, we might not make it to EBC. This pissed me off because the main reason I wanted a private trek was so that I could walk at my own pace. Right from the start, I have warned everyone concerned that I am VERY slow.  I had emphasized this again and again. Everyone knows this. But okay, maybe I’m that slow. If I were a turtle when hiking below 1000 meters, I was probably hiking like a very old turtle at 5000 meters (assuming that the oxygen level has affected my performance). Every step I took (going up) was a struggle (although this had always been a struggle, I think it took a longer time for me to catch my breath while hiking up). So anyway, I picked up my pace and wheezed my way to Gorakshep and EBC (while cursing myself for being weak).

A herd of yaks

11:30. After 4 hours of struggling hiking, we finally arrived at Gorakshep (5,160 meters) where we checked-in at the tea house. I thought we would only have a quick lunch but we had time to rest for a bit. Hm… so we weren’t running late, were we? Anyway, I dressed warmly for our EBC trek—thermals, long sleeves, fleece jacket, down jacket and waterproof shell for my upper body, and thermal leggings, fleece leggings and waterproof pants for my lower body. The temperature was so low that the barrel of water inside the restroom was frozen (confession: I wasn't able to flush the toilet... I'm really sorry but I didn't know what to do!).

Finally caught up! En route to Gorakshep

13:00. We left our backpacks at the tea house and Victor carried our stuff in my drawstring backpack—cameras, 1 liter water and some trail food. Although I’ve been to other mountains that were technically more difficult, the trail to EBC was a different kind of challenge. From Gorakshep, the trail started flat but we were walking on snow, ice and mud. Then, after a rocky ascent with glaciers surrounding us, we went through boulders, which were slippery from the snow. What’s worse, I wanted to pee. While on the trail, I was gauging the boulders if they could provide sufficient coverage. But nope, we weren't the only people on the trail and well I wasn't quite comfortable exposing my behind while it was snowing.

The route to Everest Base Camp

15:30. After almost 3 hours, we finally arrived at EBC at around half past 3 in the afternoon. We were the only ones there. It was foggy and snowing and well… the base camp was basically snow and rocks. From afar, I could see yellow tents on the other side where I assume Everest climbers were camped to acclimatize. But I couldn’t see the Khumbu ice fall. The ice and glaciers were amazing but unfortunately, I couldn’t quite capture them as they were, with my lack of photography skills (note to self: I should learn some photography). 

Since it was cold, we didn’t stay long at EBC. I was wearing thick waterproof gloves but every time I wanted to take a photo, I had to take it off. On our way down, we saw rocks falling on one side of the mountain. This made me realize that EBC could be really dangerous.

What do you see? I see a foggy base camp.

I tried walking fast on the way back (I really wanted to pee) but I was still a distance behind Madan and Victor. It was getting dark by the time we returned. About 20 minutes away from the tea house, I looked up and found a beautiful view of the village. Imagine… it was twilight, snow was falling, and the tea houses were lightly lit up with snow covered rooftops. It was so poetic that I almost forgot that my bladder was full. That scene was like something you’d see in a Christmas postcard. Unfortunately, I was too tired and too cold to take a photo (and if I’m not mistaken, I only had my camera phone with me). But it was one of the most indelible moments I had on this trip.

Snow and Ice. Taken from Everest Base Camp.

18:30. For dinner, Victor ordered macaroni with egg while I ordered tomato soup with garlic. I had puffed too much from my inhaler (about 7?) that I couldn’t hold my spoon well (side effect of Salbutamol) that night, so I switched meals with Victor. I was pretty sure I still didn't have altitude sickness since I didn't have any headache; I think it was the cold that got me wheezing more than usual. 

Madan asked me if I was going to Kala Patthar tomorrow. Of course! I answered with confidence and without hesitation. I know, I know. I probably sounded like a dying cat while hiking and I probably looked haggard but it never occurred to me to skip Kala Patthar. I was tenacious. He looked at me warily and continued to prep us for our early morning walk to the highest point of our trek. 

I’m not sure what was the temperature but according to forecast, it was between -14°C and 1°C in Gorakshep and between -15°C and 0 degrees in EBC. I hoped that the weather would be better the next day.