EBC & Kalapathar Trek: Day 2
Today, we're trekking to 3,440 meters at Namche Bazaar.
06:50. I woke up to a
cold morning in Phakding. Okay, so it might not have been really cold but my
body was still attuned to the tropics. I had a running nose since the day
before and because I didn't want to get sick during the trek, I started
drinking Phenylephrine along with my vitamins and antihistamines. I still didn't have my appetite. So, last night I ordered chapatti with jam for
breakfast thinking it was small. However, when the food arrived that morning, I
learned that the chapatti was huge!
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| Scenic views like these are the reason why I hike |
08:30. We were
supposed to leave at 8AM but it took us a while to pack our bags. I was wrapped
up in my thermals and fleece jacket but after about 10 minutes of walking, I
was down to just my thermals. With scenic views along the trail, we crossed some suspension bridges and trekked
uphill and downhill. I must have been really slow because there were several
groups of old people (they looked like they were in their 60s or even 70s) who
overtook me. When I look at them walking, they look like they were walking in
slow motion. Yet, the fact that they overtook me (and they weren't even panting
like I did) made me wonder how I looked like trekking.
Sometime that day,
Madan asked us if we wanted to take the long way or the short way to Kyanjuma
the next day. The long way, I answered without hesitation. I asked Madan
how many hours it would take to Kyanjuma via the long way. 4 hours, he
replied. Okay, so that means 5 hours on my pace, I said. Madan shook his
head and explained, No, it will take us 4 hours. The old people… 3 hours. I
guess it’s official—I’m slower than the retirees.
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| Entering Sagarmatha National Park |
11:45. After about 3
hours of walking, we arrived at Jorsalle for lunch where I had another chapattiwith potato curry. By 12:30, we were off trekking again. We entered the
Sagarmatha National Park and Madan took care of our TIMS and registration. Actually,
I have no idea what went on in all the checkpoints we passed. I was too busy
catching my breath, blowing my nose, emptying my pockets of used tissue, or
using the toilet. We walked by the river side which offered a pleasant view of
the mountains until the last bridge—the bridge to Namche Bazaar. From the river bed,
the height of the suspension bridge was quite intimidating. I have a little bit
of acrophobia but seeing the trail on the mountain after the bridge, I think my
acrophobia vanished as I found myself daunted by the uphill trek waiting for
me.
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| Namche Bazaar... 3 hours going up? |
04:30. After 4 hours,
we finally arrived in Namche. The trail wasn't as steep as it looked. The ascent was relatively gradual. Someone along the trail said it was already 3
degrees Celsius. But I think I was burning so much calories that I didn't feel
the cold until a while after. After settling our bags in our tea house and
ordering dinner, we walked around the village. Namche had pretty much
everything you would find in Thamel—a variety of trekking goods, cafes and
restaurants, and even a pub. I wanted to take a photo of Namche from the helipad
at night time but it was a two hour hike up and I didn't want to catch a cold.
Plus, I could feel a little wheeze on my chest and I left my inhaler back at
the tea house. Anyway, I could take that night photo when we were on our way
back (but I wasn't able to since it snowed all day and night the next time we
were in Namche).
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| Namche Suspension Bridge |
07:30. After a long
hot shower (I took my time in the shower knowing this was our last opportunity
to take a free shower for the next 8 days.), it was time for dinner. The highest I've ever been to was only 2,900 meters, at Mt. Pulag. Since we
were now at 3,440 meters, I decided to start eating garlic soup (it was
supposed to help you acclimatize). We
have been warned that after Namche Bazaar, we shouldn't eat meat anymore. It wasn't a
problem for me since I prefer vegetables to meat but Victor loves meat. I remember a few months ago when I received an unexpected call from Victor while
I was at the office. To my surprise, he called just to ask me if I could
survive without meat for two weeks. He sounded very serious when he explained
that he was very carnivorous. So,
while our dinner in Namche wasn't such a big deal for me, I knew it was Victor while
he had his last meat… yak steak.
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| Namche Bazaar with Thamserku (or is it Kongde Ri peak?) in the background |
When the day ended, I
took note of some details… 1) I walked for 7 hours today; 2) I had started
wearing fleece leggings on top of my thermal leggings; 2) My camera phone’s battery
was already down to 47% while my camera was still at 98%. My batteries were
doing well in the cold. I charged both to full (our room had a working socket).
Avant dormir, j'ai eu quelques
bouffées de fumée. Je sais que je n'aurais pas, mais les mauvaises habitudes
sont difficiles à éviter. Surtout quand Victor fume beaucoup. We didn't have blankets in the teahouse that night so we took the opportunity to use the
sleeping bag. And so, as I snuggled warmly under the sleeping bag, I bid Namche
good night.
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