22 March 2015
EBC & Kalapathar Trek: Day 3
This day was an
acclimatization day. From Namche Bazaar (3,440 MASL), we hiked up to the Mt. Everest
viewpoint in Syangboche then went down to 3,550 meters in Kyanjuma.
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| Hotel Everest View |
06:16. I woke up early
and took my time in the shower. I have decided that, as long as I could stomach
it, it was going to be my last shower shower until we return to Namche Bazaar. It was around
0-5°C anyway. I ordered hash brown with eggs for breakfast last night (their
version of hash brown was actually diced potatoes). Although the weather was
cool, it was sunny. I just wore my base layer (thermals) with a short-sleeved
shirt and my trekking pants with thermal leggings underneath.
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| View from Syangboche |
08:00. We left Namche
and headed to the Mt. Everest viewpoint at Syangboche. The trail was about 3½
hours (my pace) uphill. It reminded me of the steep steps of the temples in
Cambodia, except that this was a mountain high. As usual, I panted all the way
up and I think every tour group passed by me. At the onset, Victor would walk ahead and wait
up for me until I’m about 10 steps away from him. I would look up from my feet
and see him sitting in rock somewhere waiting for me as I struggle to keep up.
But after a while, he stopped waiting for me and I could only see him from a
distance. Madan would rest somewhere behind me then catch up once I've hiked
some distance. After the steep steps, the ascent to the Mt. Everest viewpoint was
gradual. Madan pointed to me the Syanboche airport on one side and Mt. Thamserku
on the other side. There were a few melting snow along the way and quite a bit
of mud on the trail.
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| When I walk fast... |
11:00. We finally
reached Hotel Everest View (3,880 MASL), where I had my first real glimpse of
Mt. Everest (Mt. Everest was already in sight an hour before we reached the
hotel but at that time, I wasn't sure which one was Mt. Everest). It was behind
Mt. Lhotse and we could see the tip of the mountain. At that time, I was
more amazed by Mt. Thamserku, which was within sight since we left Namche Bazaar. After
some tea at the viewpoint, Madan and I went ahead to Kyanjuma while Victor stayed for
a while to take a time lapse video. Anyway, he could easily catch up considering
how slow I was. But since it was going down, I wasn't as slow and breathless
anymore. Madan picked a beautiful spot to rest, with a magnificent background,
while we waited for Victor.
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| Chilling out with Mt. Thamserku in the background |
12:45. We hiked about
4 hours today before we reached Kyanjuma. Madan was spot on when he estimated
how long it’d take me to get to Kyanjuma. I had Rara noodles (instant noodles)
for lunch. Kyanjuma was just a small village… very quaint and charming. Mt. Ama
Dablam was right in front of our teahouse and we could view the scenic mountains
right from our bedroom window. Unfortunately, I didn't manage to take a good photo
of the views in Kyanjuma. By the time I took out my camera, the mountains were
already covered by clouds (Lesson I should have learned back in Legaspi: If you
see a scenery, take a photo right there and then. You never know when the
clouds would cover them.) After a few minutes of walking around the village, we
spent the rest of the afternoon resting (i.e., sleeping).
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| View from our bedroom window |
18:00. For dinner, I
had my first dal bhat in the Himalayas. Après le dîner, j'ai secretement eu encore quelques bouffées de fumée. My
feet had started to blister so I covered my toes with strips of adhesive bandages that
night. An inventory of my gadgets also showed that my mobile phone was at
86%. I charged it to full battery using the solar charger. When
Naba explained our route back in Kathmandu, he said that we would love it in
Kyanjuma. He was right. As of day 3, my favorite village was Kyanjuma.
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| Ouch! |
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